THOTCON 0xD Badge — Part 1: From Sketch to Early Prototype
June 1, 2025
by Jay Margalus

THOTCON 0xD Badge — Part 1: From Sketch to Early Prototype

We built the 2025 Thotcon 0xD badge. Here's our process.

TL;DR
I always start physical‐digital projects the same way I start a new game mechanic: pencil, paper, and a healthy disrespect for sunk costs. The THOTCON 0xD badge was no different. In this first post I’ll walk you through the messy front-end of my process—sketches, Bristol pad mock-ups, 3D‐printed "looks like" prototypes, and the decision to axe features that didn’t earn their keep.


1. Setting the Design North Star

For this year's badge, our constraint list was short but aggressive:

  1. Nostalgia, not novelty – feel more Tamagotchi than “cutting-edge IoT.”
  2. One-hand comfort – thumb-centric controls, a nice weight, and good hand-feel.
  3. Manufacturable at scale – Keep unit costs down (especially considering tariffs), low part complexity, reduce moving pieces.

As with any project, constraints help keep you honest in case an expensive or wild idea tries to sneak in.


2. Idea Dump: Pencil > Brainstorm > Repeat

Early interaction doodles

Early interaction doodles

Early interaction doodles

I burned through half a good bit of my sketch book riffing on interaction concepts:

  • Flower-pattern XY pad – a 3×3 capacitive “bloom” that lets you swipe in two axes.
  • Classic iPod wheel – haptic scroll ring with center-press confirmation.
  • Slider strip – narrow capacitive ramp for analog-ish input.
  • Tamago-egg shell – oval chassis that cues the pet metaphor.

None of these were precious; the goal was breadth.


3. 3D “Ugly” Prints: Failing Fast in PLA

First FDM prints — ovals

PLA is brutally honest. I did all of the original work using Onshape (we later ended up switching over to Fusion once the PCB work began). I do my printing on a Prusa MK4. The prints told me:

  • The ovoid shape was going to produce some problems with components placement. Most components are rectangular, and therefore to maximize surface area a rectangular container is optimal.
  • The ovoid instantly screamed “digital critter,” but PCB real estate was tight.
  • The side buttons were infeasible. Placing them on a PCB would be tricky at the price point we were aiming for.

Cheap filament, priceless feedback. The question I left this part of the process with: should we do a rectangle instead?


4. Benchmarking Real-World Devices

Measurements of different devices

I got my calipers and measuring implements out:

DeviceW × H (in)Why it matters
iPod Classic4.1 × 2.4Iconic wheel ergonomics
iPod Touch (gen 1)4.86 × 2.31Screen-to-body ratio
Tama Pikachu2.46 × 1.95“Pet-in-pocket” scale
Nokia 51101.87 × 5.2Indestructible thickness

Those numbers ended up as cardstock rectangles and ovals I could shuffle on the table until a “that’s it” silhouette emerged.


5. Paper Protos: Cheap, Quick, Honest

Paper prototypes

Paper prototypes

Cardboard doesn’t lie about pocketability. I use Strathmore Bristol 300 series paper for my paper prototyping because it has some nice rigidity to it. I mounted three screen sizes and two wheel diameters onto paper outlines and tried out different configurations. Two things surfaced:

  1. A 5" height was unnecessarily tall. All of the components could fit on something much shorter.
  2. Anything bigger than a ~2" screen was going to be difficult to place on the device. This was unfortunate, because I knew eventually it would affect readability.

Numbers locked.


6. Laser-Cut Acrylic “Looks-Like” Models

Stacked acrylic sandwich

Stacked acrylic sandwich

Once the form was > 90 % baked, I moved to stacked acrylic. I do my cutting on a Glowforge. OnShape has an option to export the faces of 3d objects as DXF files. This is handy because I can model something in 3D, print it, but also laser cut it. This came in handy when it came time to order the final acrylic shell for the badge:

  • Three-layer sandwich – clear/black/clear to preview PCB + diffuser + lens.
  • M3 standoffs to simulate actual screw posts. We ended up switch to M2.5 because the holes made during the PCB fab process are 2.5mm.
  • Interchangeable inserts for wheel vs slider trials.

The see-through shell let me check hand feel, approximate weight, and component collisions without soldering a thing.


7. The Tough Cut: Farewell, Rectangle

Acrylics

Acrylics

I loved the idea of rectangular shape, but aesthetic reality hit:

  • The shape of the device implied its purpose. A rectangle, while sleek, did not imply the purpose we were aiming for.
  • Going with the ovoid design was going to create all sorts of headaches -- from how to create the perfect shape, to having an ovoid sit in your hand nicely.

Shifting to the ovoid design, though difficult from a parts placement standpoint, ultimately leaned into the nostalgic aesthetic that we set out to adhere to.


8. Playtesting the Heritage

Running GB-Tamagotchi ROM on test rig

While hardware simmered, our team binge-played every virtual-pet I could flash. Some of the most informative ones:

  • GB Tamagotchi for menu and interaction.
  • Tama Pikachu for one-hand UX.

The exercise helped us begin to understand what hardware elements we needed to include on the badge and how people might interact with it.


Next up: dialing in the components, coming up with a schematic, rendering the final object, and getting parts quotes. Stay tuned for Part 2.


Want more?

  • Ping me on @jaymargalus (X) with questions.
  • Source files will drop on GitHub after the final post.

—Jay